A Short Encylopaedia of Soest

As in every town there are, in addition to the well-known sights, important historical data and outstanding events, always some little things which are so typical or even unique. We have therefore compiled a short list for you under the heading “Typical Soest.”

The Börde is the fertile area of land along the Hellweg plain. The productive, sandy loess soil once turned the region into the “Granary of Westphalia.” The linguistic origin of the expression “Börde” can be explained in several ways. One explanation could be because of the similarity to the word “Bürde”, (low German: Bören, Dutch: Beuren, Old High German: Burien.) Since the yield from the excellent soil was so great the peasants had to hand over a high “tithe” as payment (Gebühr). (The word Gebühr is also derived from the word Bören.) This was, of course, regarded as a great burden i.e. Bürde. The flat, scenically appealing and varied Soest Börde of today is highly regarded, particularly by cyclists. See also Soester Bördetag.

The friendly twinkling “Bull’s Eye” is a real Soest speciality. You probably think the people of Westphalian will eat absolutely anything? Not at all! ……a “Bull’s Eye” is a drink! It is a delicious concoction created in 1964 during a board meeting of the then Hellweg Dairy and has since been patented. When, during the meeting they ran out of Westphalian schnaps, some inventive Soest citizen added a dash of cream to a hurriedly procured mocha liqueur. The exceptionally successful result resembled a “Bull’s Eye” twinkling up at you out of the glass. The Soest national drink was born! Since then The All Saints’ Fair (Allerheiligen Kirmes) and other regional town festivals cannot be envisaged without it. The typical Bull’s Eye effect is created by the re-action of the liquid cream to the liqueur and is best demonstrated in a wide liqueur glass.

“Wettet, biscop Dierich van Moeres, dat wy den vesten Junker Johan can Cleve lever hebbet alls Juwe, unde wert Juwe hiermit affgesaget.” With these words from the “feud epistle” written by the people of Soest to the Archbishop of Cologne began a dispute which was to lead to a 5 year siege of the town. During the 13th and 14th centuries the diligence, the commercial and craft skills of the citizens led to a continual increase in influence and wealth, and Soest thus became one of the most important cities in Westphalia. The overlord of the town was the Archbishop of Cologne who demanded substantial taxes form the citizens of Soest. The aspiring town however, desired more freedom and a lower tax burden and decided to side with the Duke of Cleves. This was the beginning of the Soest Feud and the troops of the Archbishop of Cologne started a campaign against the town. Long years of siege followed which were able to be sat out successfully by the citizens of Soest due to their resistance, the strength of the well-fortified town wall and the moral assistance of the patron saint of the town, St. Patroclus. In 1449 the archbishop ran out of money and was not able to pay the approx. 15,000 soldiers who were besieging the town. They withdrew empty-handed. Thanks be to St. Patroklus!

Each year on Christmas Eve an appealing tradition takes place after Christmas vespers. In order to sing the “Christkinnekin” (the Christ child) to sleep, schoolboys and girls from the local grammar schools with their trombones, trumpets and lanterns climb the steps to the tower of the St. Petri Church. From there they sing “Glory be to God on high” in all four points of the compass. Down below, in the lanes and in the church squares, great numbers of reverent listeners wait for this enchanting tradition which rings in the Christmas celebrations. For all who are not able to be there in person the “Gloria” can now be bought on CD.

It is not the Pond between Europe and America that is described here. In the centre of Soest there is an area which, in earlier times, was dammed up. It was around these saline springs that the first settlers, the so-called Sodsaten, made their homes. Because of its spring activity and its salt content it never freezes over in winter. Artists have always been inspired by the view over the pond towards the Wiesen Church.

There are certain things a visitor to Soest will notice immediately: rows of imposing half-timbered houses, cobble stones lanes and, of course, green sandstone. It was used to build old town garden walls as well as monumental churches. It originated in the Cretaceous period. In various periods of time during the Upper Cretaceous period (65-135 million years ago) this marine sediment was created from debris from the surrounding dry land. The unique and inimitable colour is caused by its high glauconite content. Glauconite is a dark green mineral containing iron and aluminium which forms in flat areas of the sea. Green sandstone is still quarried around Anröchte. Although green sandstone is still used as a material for sculptures it has several disadvantages when used outdoors. Due to its high lime content it is very sensitive to weather conditions and is extremely brittle. For more information about this strange stone, a visit to the Green Sandstone Museum, which opened in 2006, is to be highly recommended.

What! - Soest is a town of the Hanseatic League? Although Soest is not situated on the coast as are Hamburg, Bremen, Rostock or Lübeck it is truly a Hanseatic town. As early as 1000 A.D. merchants from Soest conducted long distance trade and sold their products world-wide. In 1253 the Westfälischer Städtebund (an alliance of Westphalian towns) was founded as protection against highwaymen, pirates and robber barons during their long journeys. This alliance later became the Hanse. Soest was particularly favoured by its location on the Hellweg, an important long-distance trade route. Commodities such as salt and fells were also transported by ship. It has been proved that Soest maintained trade relations with Russia, the Baltic States and the Island of Gotland. The town can thank these well-developed trade relations for much of Soest’s former wealth and many of its art treasures.

The huntsman of Soest is actually Simplicius Simplicissimus and is the main character in the novel by Hans Jakob Christoph von Grimmelshausen. He lived like a lord, took part in the 30 years’ War in the regiment of Graf (Duke) Götz and looted the possessions of the peasants. Since then he has been “tamed” and now represents the town at Hanse conventions and town festivals. The adventurous old war-horse mutated in 1976, the 300th anniversary of the death of the author Grimmelshausen, to become the symbolic figure of the town. He is elected annually at the All Saints’ Fair and, at the side of the mayor and the Börde Queen, declares the All Saints’ Fair officially open. It is a great honour to wear the Jägerken costume, an honour bestowed on members of clubs, professions and groups who have rendered exceptional services to the town. More information concerning the Allerheiligenkirmes (All Saints’ Fair) and the Jägerken of Soest can be found under http://www.soester-allerheiligenkirmes.org  

In the Middle Ages paper was extremely expensive and difficult to produce. If, however, something had to be written, one had to make do with animals skins – so-called parchment. Important parts of the famous, extensive Soest town law were written on such parchment rolls, called the “Old” and the “New Cowhide.” The rolls are approx. 55x75cms. and the text is written in Latin on one side of the cowhide. The older of the two rolls dates from around 1200, the newer from about 1400. These very special items are kept in the Soest Town Archives - Soester Stadtarchiv.

Soest plays a main role in the Nordic Sagas. If the bloodthirsty tales of the Thidrekssaga are to be believed, Kriemhild’s brothers were visiting relatives in “Sosat”, the largest town in the Westphalia of that time and seat of Attala, King of the Huns, when they met their downfall. Who knows, perhaps a piece of early Soest history is concealed in the Nibelungenlied? At any rate, it has been proved that the town already existed in 500A.D.

When, in France, the Roman Governor Aurelian had devout Christians persecuted, he also ordered a young man from Troyes, called Patroklus, to be beheaded in 275A.D. He had steadfastly refused to abandon his faith and was later pronounced a martyr. The bones of the saint eventually came to Soest by way of the Bishop of Troyes as a present from Bruno, the Archbishop of Cologne on the occasion of the construction of a church. From that moment on Patroklus was regarded not only as the patron saint of that particular church but also of the whole town. Today he is still to be seen in various figurative depictions around the old town. For example, a large Patroklus Statue keeps watch over his town from the façade of the Town Hall. The relics of St. Patroklus still lie well-protected in a golden reliquary in the church of St. Patroklus.

In the meantime it is well-known throughout the whole world and is to be found in every delicatessen. Admittedly, the name sounds somewhat peculiar, but this heavy, black bread is absolutely delicious when spread with butter and cheese. Genuine Soest Pumpernickel is produced by the Haverland bakery, which can proudly claim the title of “the oldest Pumpernickel bakery in Germany.” And because no Pumpernickel is made outwith Germany it can justifiably be said that the oldest Pumpernickel bakery in the world is in Soest. The origin of the name still puzzles many a linguist. If one believes their theory the word Pumpernickel means no more than a “farting goblin.”

The red key with the characteristic bit on the Soest coat of arms and on the town flag is the key of St. Peter, one of the patron saints of the town. The red and white town flag is easily confused with the town flag of the Hanseatic town of Bremen, which also has a red St. Peter’s key. The two keys however, differ in the shape of their bits.

Schnurren, also known in some regions as “Döneken,” is no more than a humorous anecdote, often narrated by the older generation in Westphalian “Platt” (a Low German
dialect). The subject is often of amusing tales of squabbles, not seldom among neighbours.

A ducking in the Great Pond: Every year in June a large, gloating crowd gathers to take part in a very special spectacle. The “Bürgerschützen” then revive an ancient custom and “punish” in true medieval manner, three prominent citizens – the so-called miscreants - who have been found guilty of greater or lesser lapses. Accompanied by their fellow Schützen, appropriately dressed in the town sentry costumes of the Middle Ages, and by the applause of the audience, they climb to the top of the yellow (the colour of shame) see-saw at the edge of the pond and plunge into the waters. What used to be a medieval punishment for stealing from the fields or for bakers, whose rolls were found to be too small, is now a regular component of the event calendar of the town and a distinction for the “miscreants.” After all, just consider the honour of being received into such an illustrious, select circle!

Soest is one of the few towns in Germany which can be proud of an almost completely preserved medieval wall. In the Middle Ages the mighty stronghold with its fortified towers and ramparts was regarded as being invincible. During the Soest Feud it was thanks to these massive town walls that the troops of the Archbishop of Cologne were never able to take the town by storm. Nowadays one can go for marvellous walks here – including a glimpse into picturesque old town gardens. All kinds of fascinating and useful information concerning the town wall can be experienced during a special themed guided tour, the “Tales of the Soest Town Walls”. This tour can be booked at the Tourist Information.

Consists of beer in large tankards, ham, boar’s head and, of course, pumpernickel. This ancient Westphalian repast cannot, however, be ordered in the Soest gastronomy. It is namely a portrayal of Christ at the Last Supper on a famous window in the St. Maria zur Wiese Church. This scene of the Last Supper was transported without further ado to Westphalia by the unknown artist around 1500. At that time every tradesman, who purported to have been in Soest, had to be able to describe this scene in detail. A “take-away” Last Supper can be purchased at the Tourist Information. Please order in advance.

 A very special representation of the birth of Christ can be admired in the St. Patrokli Church as from the 2nd Sunday in Advent. The lovingly designed nativity scene is set up in typical, down-to-earth Westphalian style. It is, therefore, no great surprise that, in addition to the streams, animals and agricultural implements, one doesn’t find a conventional stable, but a characteristic half-timbered farmhouse as accommodation for the Holy Family. The nativity scene can be viewed from all sides and the arrangement of the figures is continually changed to illustrate the Christmas story from the Annunciation, to the birth of Christ and the subsequent arrival of the Magi. The nativity scene can be viewed until February 2nd (Candlemas or The Feast of the Presentation of Jesus at the Temple). For many inhabitants of Soest a stroll around the Christmas Market would not be complete without a visit to the nativity scene in the St. Patrokli Church.